Wine 
The Hemingway of Valpolicella
If wine matters—if it can be said to matter at all—then what we’re looking for is an antidote to oblivion. A bottle’s imposition on memory, its ability to make us think and refl... ...read more
Serious Boys: Decoding Vintage Champagne
In his elegant and occasionally very funny book about Bollinger, the British writer Cyril Ray relates a story about how champagne became known as “the boy” in late-Victorian Eng... ...read more
Savage Pleasures: A Night of Grower Champagne
Like most adults who haven’t undergone a recent rhinoplasty or taken a vow of sobriety with a Jesuit order, I happen to adore champagne. Some of the most indelibly joyous moment... ...read more
The Rise and Fall and Rise of Vienna’s Wine
To keep learning about a thing is to realize, more and more, that one has barely grazed the surface. Getting to know wine is a trusty reminder of this niggling fact. In June, I ... ...read moreWar Stories From Manhattan Sommeliers
Among the countless ways of enjoying wine, none inspires the anxiety and high drama of ordering in a four-star gustatory palace. One of those places where the butter is flown in... ...read more
Recession Happy Hour: Celebrating Truly Cheap Wine
Drinking nothing but expensive wine can be harmful to your inner life. It’s like listening to nothing but Schoenberg, or wearing Top-Siders whenever you go out, or having dinner... ...read more
Enter the 36 Chambers of Cristal
A friend of a friend who tended bar near Houston Street in lower Manhattan likes to tell a story about a night, in the mid-nineties, when the late Notorious B.I.G. decided to st... ...read more
Red, White and Schnitzel
If you want to experience nearly total silence, you could book passage to inner Turkey or the Gobi desert, or you could come to Südburgenland, on Austria’s Eastern periphery. Th... ...read more
The Discreet Charm of Jadot
There’s a mackerel-scented grit to certain New York Chinese restaurants that speaks to wine geeks. Call it pathos, if you’d rather. Fact is, fine dining, with its mark-ups and c... ...read more
Wine Tastings Are Ruining Your Life
Spring has come to New York: apartment dwellers are hauling air conditioners out of their closets, lilacs are in flower, hot dog carts are rolling out again, and so are the spit... ...read moreFollow Us
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