A road trip to the South this weekend brought me and some friends up close to the remnants of one of Lebanon’s prouder former Jewish communities. For some reason the Jews of Lebanon have been a hot journalistic subject around here recently, at least ever since this article in Ha’aretz reported that a group of Lebanese Jews in exile were planning to fund the restoration of Beirut’s once-noble synagogue near downtown. (For more on that story, seen Ben Gilbert’s sharp follow-up in GlobalPost. Ben is also the highly capable editor of the regional business magazine Executive, which recently featured “The Jews of Lebanon” on its cover; this has resulted in the curious sight of a giant photograph of a menorah sitting in doctor’s office waiting rooms and on the desks of bank executives all across town.)
What we found on the way south from Saida was something less prominent, but perhaps more telling: the scattered ruins of Saida’s Jewish cemetery.
Saida, like many Middle Eastern cities, still has a neighborhood known as the Jewish Quarter. (In fact, back in the old city we had briefly puzzled over a martyr poster of a little boy — below that of a deceased resistance leader — that said, in bold script, that it was “paid for by the youth of the Jewish Quarter,” which seemed like an odd juxtaposition. Turns out the boy, tragically, fell into the sea near town and drowned.) According to Kirsten E. Schulze’s book, “The Jews of Lebanon: Between Coexistence and Conflict,” the Jewish presence in Saida dates back at least a thousand years and those who remained in the 1960s and early 1970s had a fine relationship with their Lebanese neighbors. By 1975, though, there was only one Jewish family left in town, that of Josef and Jamila Levy.
Schulze:
Josef Levy worked as a tailor. He made uniforms for the Lebanese army, and consequently had good relations with the local and national administration. In 1975, when the civil war broke out, Zaki Levy [Josef's youngest son] was finishing his secondary education. He had gone to the Freres Maristes school and had to travel through the troubles to Beirut to the French Embassy in order to take his final exams. “When I came back from Beirut the whole city was on strike and shut down.” He then left for France to study pharmacy.
Josef died two years later. Many members of the Levy family drifted away from Lebanon, but Zaki returned, and stayed there through the Israeli invasion and occupation of Saida in the 1980s. For the Levy family, the Israeli occupation was something of a boon time, but also the beginning of the end.
The Levys lived in a spacious second-floor flat on the edge of the area in Saida referred to as the casbah, located on the seashore across the street from the customs building and above a fish0mongers and barbershop. In fact, the two shops were owned by Palestinians who were good friends of the Levy’s…. The Levy’s reaction to the Israeli invasion is reminiscent of others among Lebanon’s Jews. They were pleased to see Jews and happy to received kosher meat from Israeli soldiers.
After the IDF withdrew from Saida, and facing warnings from the Israeli government about threats of terrorism against them, the last members of the Levy family relented, and moved to Tel Aviv. They locked the doors of their home on the way out.
What remains today, if the cemetery is any indication, is a sorry legacy. The cemetery sits on a sandy dune alongside a busy roadway and across the street from the main (and massive) landfill for the city of Saida, which adds little by way of ambiance.
Meanwhile, an impenetrable fortress of thick and sharp thorn bushes has grown throughout the cemetery, making walking into the place virtually impossible, and enveloping the tombs with prickly spears. Many of the tombstones themselves have been toppled over, and in some cases scavengers have shattered them to get at the inscribed marble contained within.
It’s had to know if the state of this particular site says anything about the Lebanese — or the Saidanese — people’s present feelings about Jews so much as it speaks to the general Lebanese antipathy to their own history. The relationship between the Lebanese and their memories — especially the bad ones — is ambiguous and fraught, and for good reason: an awful lot of bad stuff went down here. In Beirut, one of my favorite buildings is the Barakat Building, a residential complex at a main intersection along the former Green Line. It is an ornate, French imperialist style building with beautiful intricate columns and wrought-iron balconies, but during the Civil War it was favored for its prime sniping location, and so now it lies in ruins. It symbolizes, perhaps more than the cliched Holiday Inn, Lebanon’s curious mix of glamor and wretchedness that has never been fully confronted by the population here. On a visit to Beirut in 2004, I took this picture of it:
There have been reports that the building is being preserved in order to be converted into a Museum of Memory about the Civil War, but if that’s the case, so far the city has only taken steps backward: considered primarily an eye-sore, the building’s facade has been concealed by a massive canvas with a pretty picture on it. What lies beneath — the gruesome history that is plainly evident — is so far only being covered up. The cemetery in Saida, in ruins but at least left there for anyone to see, just might be more dignified.
Joshua Hersh
Joshua Hersh is a writer who lives in Beirut. He was previously a fact-checker at the New Yorker, and his work has appeared in the New Yorker, the New Republic, the National (Abu Dhabi), and the New York Times. You can see ...
Read more about Joshua Hersh ->
More on these topics:
Barakat Building, Beirut, Jews, Jews of Lebanon, Lebanese Civil War, Lebanon, Memory, Saida, Saida Cemetery
levy isaac(zaki) says:
mr joshua hello its zaki writing to you i am the son of joseph and jamija iam writing to you from metulla its agood report if you want to be in contact please wright to me to my mail.
syria travel says:
Syria is a great place and I encourage everybody to visit it.
syria travel says:
Syria is a great place to visit. There's so much to see.
Ruba Moghrabi says:
The Levy’s reaction to the Israeli invasion is reminiscent of others among Lebanon’s Jews. They were pleased to see Jews and happy to received kosher meat from Israeli soldiers.
To Josh and Zaki, as per your research, Joshua and your experience, Zaki, what was teh reaction of the Lebanese Jews to teh Israeli invasion of Lebanon in 1982. The above quote clearly says they were happy and comfortable with it. Could you share your thoughts please? Many thanks!
Luke says:
I recommend that Joshua Hersh makes a trip to Israel and visit the ruins of the Palestinian towns and villages depopulated in 1948 by the Israelis--but that might take a lifetime to achieve (I doubt my post will be published!):
al-Amqa
Arab al-Samniyya
al-Bassa
al-Birwa
al-Damun
Dayr al-Qassi
al-Ghabisiyya
Iqrit
Iribbin, Khirbat
Jiddin, Khirbat
al-Kabri
Kafr Bir'im
Kafr 'Inan
Kuwaykat
al-Manshiyya
al-Mansura
Mi'ar
al-Nabi Rubin
al-Nahr
al-Ruways
Sha'ab
Suhmata
al-Sumayriyya
Suruh
al-Tall (Tell)
Tarbikha
Umm al-Faraj
al-Zeeb (Zib)
Arab al-'Arida
Arab al-Bawati
Arab al-Safa
al-Ashrafiyya
Al-Bira, Baysan
Danna
Farwana
al-Fatur
al-Ghazzawiyya
al-Hamidiyya
Al-Hamra, Baysan
Jabbul
Kafra
Kawkab al-Hawa
al-Khunayzir
Masil al-Jizl
al-Murassas
Qumya
al-Sakhina
al-Samiriyya
Sirin
Tall al-Shawk
al-Taqa, Khirbat
al-Tira
Umm 'Ajra
Umm Sabuna, Khirbat
Yubla
Zab'a
al-Zawiya, Khirbat
Beersheba
al-Imara
al-Jammama
al-Khalasa
Arab Suqrir
Barbara
Barqa
al-Batani al-Gharbi
al-Batani al-Sharqi
Beit Daras
Bayt 'Affa
Bayt Jirja
Bayt Tima
Bil'in
Burayr
Dayr Sunayd
Dimra
al-Faluja
Hamama
Hatta
Hiribya
Huj
Hulayqat
Ibdis
Iraq al-Manshiyya
Iraq Suwaydan
Isdud
al-Jaladiyya
al-Jiyya
Julis
al-Jura
Jusayr
Karatiyya
Kawfakha
Kawkaba
al-Khisas
al-Majdal
al-Masmiyya al-Kabira
al-Masmiyya al-Saghira
al-Muharraqa
Najd
Ni'ilya
Qastina
al-Sawafir al-Gharbiyya
al-Sawafir al-Shamaliyya
al-Sawafir al-Sharqiyya
Simsim
Summil
Tall al-Turmus
Yasur
Abu Shusha
Abu Zurayq
Arab al-Fuqara
Arab al-Nufay'at
Arab Zahrat al-Dumayri
Ayn Ghazal
Balad al-Shaykh
Barrat Qisarya
Beisan (Beit She'an)
Burayka
al-Burj, Khirbat
al-Butaymat
Daliyat al-Rawha'
al-Dumun, Khirbat
Ain Hawd
al-Ghubayya al-Fawqa
al-Ghubayya al-Tahta
Hawsha
Ijzim
Jaba'
al-Jalama
Kabara
al-Kafrayn
Kafr Lam
al-Kasayir, Khirbat
Khubbayza
Lid, Khirbat
al-Manara, Khirbat
al-Mansi
al-Mansura, Khirbat
al-Mazar
al-Naghnaghiyya
Qannir
Qira
Qisarya
Qumbaza
al-Rihaniyya
Sabbarin
al-Sarafand
al-Sarkas, Khirbat
Sa'sa', Khirbat
al-Sawamir
al-Shuna, Khirbat
al-Sindiyana
al-Tantura
al-Tira
Tiberias
Umm al-Shawf
Umm al-Zinat
Wa'arat al-Sarris
Wadi Ara (village)
Yajur, Haifa
Ajjur
Barqusya
Bayt Jibrin
Bayt Nattif
al-Dawayima
Dayr al-Dubban
Dayr Nakhkhas
Kudna
Mughallis
al-Qubayba
Ra'na
Tall al-Safi
Umm Burj, Khirbat
az-Zakariyya
Zayta
Zikrin
al-'Abbasiyya
Abu Kishk
Bayt Dajan
Biyar 'Adas
Fajja
al-Haram
Ijlil al-Qibliyya
Ijlil al-Shamaliyya
al-Jammasin al-Gharbi
al-Jammasin al-Sharqi
Jarisha
Kafr 'Ana
al-Khayriyya
al-Mas'udiyya
al-Mirr
al-Muwaylih
Rantiya
al-Safiriyya
Salama
Saqiya
al-Sawalima
al-Shaykh Muwannis
Yazur
Allar
Aqqur
Artuf
Bayt 'Itab
Bayt Mahsir
Bayt Naqquba
Bayt Thul
Bayt Umm al-Mays
al-Burayj
Dayr Aban
Dayr 'Amr
Dayr al-Hawa
Dayr Rafat
Dayr al-Shaykh
Deir Yassin
Ein Karim
Ishwa
Islin
Ism Allah, Khirbat
Jarash
al-Jura
Kasla
al-Lawz, Khirbat
Lifta
al-Maliha
Nitaf
al-Qabu
Qalunya
al-Qastal
Ras Abu 'Ammar
Sar'a
Saris
Sataf
Suba
Sufla
al-Tannur, Khirbat
al-'Umur, Khirbat
al-Walaja
Ayn al-Mansi
al-Jawfa, Khirbat
al-Lajjun
al-Mazar
Nuris
Zir'in
Indur
Ma'lul
al-Mujaydil
Saffuriyya
al-Subeih
Abu al-Fadl
Abu Shusha
Ajanjul
Aqir
Barfiliya
al-Barriyya
Bashshit
Bayt Far, Khirbat
Bayt Jiz
Bayt Nabala
Bayt Shanna
Bayt Susin
Bir Ma'in
Bir Salim
al-Burj
al-Buwayra, Khirbat
Daniyal
Dayr Abu Salama
Dayr Ayyub
Dayr Muhaysin
Dayr Tarif
al-Duhayriyya, Khirbat
al-Haditha
Idnibba
Innaba
Jilya
Jimzu
Kharruba
al-Khayma
Khulda
al-Kunayyisa
al-Latrun
Lydda (Lod)
al-Maghar
Majdal Yaba
al-Mansura
al-Mukhayzin
al-Muzayri'a
al-Na'ani
Nabi Rubin
Qatra
Qazaza
al-Qubab
al-Qubayba
Qula
Ramla; see Exodus from Lydda and Ramla
Sajad
Salbit
Sarafand al-'Amar
Sarafand al-Kharab
Saydun
Shahma
Shilta
al-Tina
al-Tira
Umm Kalkha
Wadi Hunayn
Yibna
Zakariyya, Khirbat
Zarnuqa
Abil al-Qamh
al-'Abisiyya
Alma
Ammuqa
Arab al-Shamalina
Arab al-Zubayd
Baysamun
Biriyya
al-Butayha
al-Buwayziyya
Dallata
al-Dawwara
Dayshum
al-Dirbashiyya
al-Dirdara
Ein al-Zeitun
Fara
al-Farradiyya
Fir'im
Ghabbatiyya
Ghuraba
al-Hamra'
Harrawi
Hunin
al-Husayniyya
Jahula
al-Ja'una
Jubb Yusuf
Kafr Bir'im
al-Khalisa
Khan al-Duwayr
Karraza, Khirbat
al-Khisas
Khiyam al-Walid
Kirad al-Baqqara
Kirad al-Ghannama
Lazzaza
Madahil
al-Malikiyya
Mallaha
al-Manshiyya
al-Mansura, Safad
Mansurat al-Khayt
Marus
Mirun
al-Muftakhira
Mughr al-Khayt
al-Muntar, Khirbat
al-Nabi Yusha'
al-Na'ima
Qabba'a
Qadas
Qaddita
Qaytiyya
al-Qudayriyya
al-Ras al-Ahmar
Sabalan
Safsaf, massacre[5]
Saliha, massacre[4]
al-Salihiyya
al-Sammu'i
al-Sanbariyya
Sa'sa'
Safad
al-Shawka al-Tahta
al-Shuna
Taytaba
Tulayl
al-'Ulmaniyya
al-'Urayfiyya
al-Wayziyya
Yarda
al-Zahiriyya al-Tahta
al-Zanghariyya
al-Zawiya
al-Zuq al-Fawqani
al-Zuq al-Tahtani
Awlam, Arab evacuation order, April-May 1948.[3]
al-Dalhamiyya
Ghuwayr Abu Shusha
Hadatha, Arab evacuation order, April-May 1948.[3]
al-Hamma
Hittin
Kafr Sabt
Lubya
Ma'dhar, Arab evacuation order, April-May 1948.[3]
al-Majdal
al-Manara
al-Manshiyya
al-Mansura, Tiberias
Nasir al-Din
Nimrin
al-Nuqayb
Samakh
al-Samakiyya
al-Samra
al-Shajara
al-Tabigha
al-Ubaydiyya
al-Wa'ra al-Sawda', Khirbat
Yaquq
Bayt Lid, Khirbat
Bayyarat Hannun
Fardisya
Ghabat Kafr Sur
al-Jalama
Kafr Saba
al-Majdal, Khirbat
al-Manshiyya
Miska
Qaqun
Raml Zayta
Tabsur
Umm Khalid
Wadi al-Hawarith
Wadi Qabbani
al-Zababida, Khirbat
Khirbat Zalafa