Don’t Forget the Dip

It’s almost party time, and if you’re like a lot of food-minded folks I know, you’ve already frittered away a few working hours thinking about that menu. Come 4^th of July, we Americans tend to emphasize the burgers and brats, chicken and ribs (or tofu). But don’t forget the relish.

I grew up on charred chicken (sorry, Dad—the truth comes out), and I’ve had plenty a thunderstorm spoil the grill. But the right side dish can save the affair. Give your guests a stinky-good liptauer or a spicy jaeow, and they’ll savor the day. Asian cooks know this well. A zesty dip will turn any old buffalo hide or bowl of rice into heavenly bites.

Here, I offer six dip and relish recipes that should knock the socks off your holiday guests. And, since we’re celebrating the birth of our multicultural nation, these recipes hail from hither and yon, reflecting the diversity that makes us who we are.

Cambodian Green Mango Relish
(Adapted from the Friends-International book, From Spiders to Water Lilies. This relish works best with grilled fish.)
Start to finish: 15 minutes prep, 30 minutes sitting
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
2 green mangoes*
5 small shallots, finely sliced
2 bird’s eye chiles (more or less to taste), finely chopped
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 teaspoons palm sugar

*Asian markets often sell green mangoes. If unavailable, ripe mangoes can be used for a sweeter relish. Or, simply buy the least ripe mangoes you can find.

Peel the mangoes and shred the flesh. Mix with other ingredients and let sit half an hour before serving.

Burmese Guacamole
(Inspired by the avocado spread served at a breakfast buffet in a Yangon guesthouse.)
Start to finish: 15 minutes
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
3 ripe avocados
drizzle of peanut oil
3 shallots, finely sliced
handful of chopped cilantro
large pinch of ground chickpea or peanut powder (pounded with mortar and pestle)
juice of 3 key limes
hot chile powder to taste
salt to taste

Method:
Scoop the avocado flesh into a bowl. Add the other ingredients and mix well until you achieve the desired consistency (the original version was rather lumpy—but delicious).

Olive Salsa
(Adapted from Salsa Cooking by Marjie Lambert. I don’t recall how I came upon this book, but I’ve had it for ages. Jerry and I so loved this salsa, we served it at our wedding.)
Start to finish: 15 minutes prep, 30 minutes sitting
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
1 can or jar green olives (pitted)
1 can or jar black olives (pitted)
3 cloves garlic
1 hot jalapeno
1 small red onion
1 small red bell pepper
2 ounces anchovy fillets
¼ cup pine nuts
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

Method:
Toast the pine nuts until lightly browned. This can be done in a 300-degree oven, but I prefer using a skillet or tortilla pan on the stovetop. Sprinkle nuts with a tiny amount of water so they don’t burn. When browned, remove from heat and set aside.

Place all other ingredients into a food processor and chop coarsely. Place into a bowl and mix with pine nuts. Let sit 30 minutes before serving.

Cambodian Salt & Pepper
(This is such a simple dip, served across Cambodia with shrimp or crab. It also works well with grilled beef, especially kabobs.)
Start to finish: 5 minutes
Serves: varies

Ingredients:
1 part black peppercorns
1 part coarse sea salt
lime juice

Method:
Grind or pound salt and pepper using a mortar and pestle until the mixture is grainy. Be sure to use the highest-quality pepper and salt available. (When possible, I use Kampot pepper, which is intensely aromatic and spicy, yet somewhat floral. I also use Kampot sea salt straight from the fields.) Set aside until ready to serve with fish, seafood or meat. Squeeze fresh lime over the salt and pepper and mix until you have a thick paste. This can be served in one large communal bowl or in separate small dishes for each diner. Dip meat or seafood into the mix.

Jaeow Mak Len, Lao Grilled Tomato Salsa
(Adapted from recipes served in villages across Laos.)
Start to finish: 45 minutes
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
10 small or 5 large tomatoes (if small, skewer; if large, slice in half, remove seeds and place on foil and turn occasionally while grilling)
1 head garlic
1 large shallot
fresh chiles (your choice)
1 bunch cilantro
1 handful green onions
fresh lime juice to taste
salt to taste
glug of fish sauce (optional)
pinch of palm sugar (optional)

Method:
Grill tomatoes, garlic, shallot and chiles over fire until blackened. Remove garlic and shallot skins as well as the most charred parts of the tomatoes and chiles. Pound the vegetables with salt, using a mortar and pestle (or food processor). Add cilantro, onions, lime and pound further. Taste. Add fish sauce and sugar, if using, and additional salt or lime if desired. Serve with chips (or sticky rice for a traditional Lao dish).

Oma’s Liptauer
(Adapted from my husband’s grandmother’s Vienna-based recipe.)
Start to finish: 15 minutes prep, 3 hours sitting
Serves: 6

Ingredients:
1 package cream cheese
1 tablespoon capers
1 small white onion, finely chopped
1 tablespoon paprika
pinch of salt
1 tablespoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon anchovy paste
juice of 1 small lemon

Method:
Using a mortar and pestle or food processor, pound together all of the ingredients except cheese until they form a smooth pulp. Fold the mixture into the cheese, stirring continuously until a smooth, even spread forms. Refrigerate at least 3 hours before eating. Serve with crackers, raw veggies or bagels.

Photos by Jerry Redfern. See more at Rambling Spoon.

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